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    Certain clichés, some more tenacious than others, define generations of Indian restaurants in the United States. It’s a font, the type stylized with curly, pointy-ended serifs. It’s a basket of cold, black-edged papad dressed up as bread service. Usually, though, it’s a menu of naan and curry, pleasing in its soft, warm vagueness. And so when the chef Preeti Mistry opened her first restaurant, she wanted to avoid as many of those clichés as possible. “I wanted to do something that was the opposite of all of that,” Mistry said. At first, she railed against naan and curry. It pained her that India’s vast cuisine was still, so often, reduced to that pairing. “I wanted to bring something that was more out there, that didn’t really exist yet,” she said.

    What Mistry brought was Juhu Beach Club, a small restaurant in Oakland that opened in 2013, where she cooked with ingredients from the farmers’ market. In “The Juhu Beach Club Cookbook,” which Mistry wrote with Sarah Henry last fall, she tells the story of how she grew up tasting Indian street food on the beaches of Mumbai, longing to eat more than her mother’s home-cooked meals and sneaking cans of Coke at friends’ houses. By the time she was working in the basement kitchen of Claridge’s in London, Mistry knew that cooking would be her path.

    She started with a pop-up inside a liquor store in San Francisco, where she moved in the ’90s, crushing cloves and cardamom in a coffee grinder and bringing her spice pastes from home. Eventually, she opened Juhu Beach Club, and though it closed in January, it was authentic to Mistry’s complex point of view as a first-generation Indian-American — one born in London to Asian parents from East Africa, raised in the American Midwest, cheffing in Northern California.

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  • “A lot of old-school Indian restaurants won’t use black salt because they think it’s going to be too weird,” said Mistry, referring to the dark rock salt crystals, pungent with sulfur, often used to season and bring depth to chaats and other food. “I love it, it’s awesome. It has this flavor and funk that’s really distinctive. And I’m not pandering to anyone.” Mistry put black salt in tangy, crunchy salads when she felt it belonged in them and cooked the way she liked. She bought locally grown fenugreek leaves for methi chicken, and built chaat with fresh green chickpeas. She fried the thin, crisp, delicate chickpea noodles to make sev in house, and served them with persimmons when they were in season. “I thought about the building blocks of sev puri,” Mistry said. “I thought about the elements like any chef would think about a classic dish.”

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    There were waffles on the weekends. Mistry cooked them from the same kind of fermented batter typically used to make dosa. And each summer, there was the conundrum of the tomato salad. Every California restaurant has a summery tomato salad of some kind, Mistry explained. A riff of some sort on a caprese — tomatoes, mozzarella, herbs. Mistry wanted one, too, and she experimented with many versions. There was the one with soft, creamy paneer made from fresh milk, standing in for mozzarella. But Mistry said it had too many bells and whistles. Then a few years ago, she came up with a tomato salad that drew from the flavors of a kachumber — a raw, roughly chopped salad sometimes seasoned with only cumin seeds and lemon juice. It’s this one, which I made in my Brooklyn kitchen again and again throughout August and September, that showed me very clearly what I’d miss after Juhu Beach Club closed.

    To put it together, Mistry made something resembling a green-goddess dressing — herbs blitzed with a little yogurt, vinegar and oil. Then she seasoned plain fatty yogurt with toasted, crushed cumin seeds and salt and smeared it all over a plate. She piled a mix of dressed heirloom tomatoes on top, the big ones cut into wedges, the little ones halved. And that was it. “I wanted to make it simple,” Mistry said. “I wanted to make, in the moment, just whatever felt right.”

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  • 출장업소부산출장서비스보장U밀양출장서비스”《춘천출장서비스『카톡: Mo46』【m oo27.c0M】출장업계위출장안마야한곳Y╤╤2019-02-17-13-00춘천╠ AIJ╬ 콜걸만남출장오피출장샵│출장코스가격❦출장샵예약╧춘천》전라북도콜걸출장마사지╗남양주콜걸샵➸용인출장샵후기┖김제동출장마사지

    It wasn’t a kachumber, not by any definition. Neither could it pass as a caprese, not that it even wanted to. It wasn’t a mash-up of the two, either. It was better — it was something that didn’t really exist yet — delicious, habit-forming and a wonderful thing to do with the last sweet, fat tomatoes of the year.

    출장오피걸청주오피☏영천출장안마▨《춘천출장마사지『카톡: Mo46』(m oo27.c0M)콜걸출장안마출장샵안내Y➻♚2019-02-17-13-00춘천■AIJ☰출장색시미녀언니모텔출장출장오피━출장외국인✈콜걸만남↺춘천》오산출장샵예약⇙공주출장안마야한곳☒정읍콜걸업소╔과천출장서비스통영출장맛사지➷대구출장미인아가씨■《춘천흥출장안마[카톡: Mo46]{m oo27.c0M}출장샵출장안마추천Y★┨2019-02-17-13-00춘천♥AIJ⇪콜걸출장마사지출장샵예약콜걸출장마사지▦출장만족보장❀출장색시미녀언니☢춘천》수원출장샵추천⇀태백출장샵추천►광주콜걸샵⇔구미출장만남춘천콜걸후기영천출장샵안내♨김해출장샵후기★《춘천출장외국인[카톡: Mo46]〖m oo27.c0M〗콜걸출장마사지출장샵추천Y┸ⓥ2019-02-17-13-00춘천↘AIJU출장서비스보장출장아가씨모텔출장┱출장마사지↳출장미인아가씨☳춘천》파주출장샵콜걸╢청주출장외국인♝문경출장시⇪제주도출장시의정부출장안마공주출장안마↕강원도출장코스가격↕《춘천출장여대생[카톡: Mo46]{m oo27.c0M}릉콜걸샵콜걸만남Y◐☟2019-02-17-13-00춘천﹌AIJ↩출장오피출장연애인급출장연애인급♣오피걸⇗출장몸매최고⇚춘천》양산출장소이스홍성¤군포출장만남┴남원출장샵콜걸☳대구동출장마사지

  • 출장대행
  • 춘천모텔출장(카톡: Mo46)[m oo27.c0M]출장최강미녀모텔출장Y▒●2019-02-17-13-00춘천♀AIJ◄출장소이스출장최고시콜걸출장안마♫출장샵⇦출장오피◐춘천
  • 춘천출장샵예약
  • 논산안마◢안동출장소이스↔《춘천출장안마《카톡: Mo46》[m oo27.c0M]출장맛사지출장가격Y♮∴2019-02-17-13-00춘천✪AIJ↕출장미인아가씨출장최강미녀콜걸추천◁콜걸강추╣릉콜걸샵♩춘천》춘천출장오피⇊부천출장코스가격►익산출장오쓰피걸⇎파주출장업계위

  • 춘천출장만남【카톡: Mo46】〖m oo27.c0M〗출장최강미녀출장샵콜걸Y┟﹌2019-02-17-13-00춘천⇛AIJ┗출장서비스보장출장샵추천출장색시미녀언니↯콜걸☛출장샵콜걸●춘천
  • 출장마사지
  • 김천출장시↝과천출장샵콜걸▶《춘천출장만족보장(카톡: Mo46)〖m oo27.c0M〗출장업소콜걸추천Y┡▌2019-02-17-13-00춘천┃AIJ☁출장소이스안마오피┳출장만남유콜걸후기☃춘천》시흥출장서비스보장☜안동출장업소♮경산모텔출장┛강원도출장샵추천춘천콜걸후기춘천콜걸강추【카톡: Mo46】『m oo27.c0M』출장서비스출장안마Y✁✘2019-02-17-13-00춘천☻AIJ⇁콜걸샵역출장안마출장가격▷콜걸출장마사지☎출장샵안내★춘천

    A version of this article appears in print on , on Page 30 of the Sunday Magazine with the headline: The Last Great Tomato Salad of the Year
  • 모텔출장
  • 춘천출장최강미녀(카톡: Mo46)〖m oo27.c0M〗콜걸샵출장안마Y▶◈2019-02-17-13-00춘천♘AIJ↽출장업계위출장최강미녀출장미인아가씨⇚외국인출장만남✲출장샵예약⇀춘천

  • 영주출장서비스보장◁이천출장샵예약포항○《춘천출장최강미녀[카톡: Mo46][m oo27.c0M]출장미인아가씨출장소이스홍성Y↥☜2019-02-17-13-00춘천▦AIJ↮출장미인아가씨콜걸출장안마출장가격♨출장샵예약포항 출장만남⇃춘천》서산출장오피★남원출장최고시⇆정읍출장업계위♘남양주출장서비스보장
    원주출장샵후기ღ강릉콜걸만남☼《춘천출장오쓰피걸【카톡: Mo46】『m oo27.c0M』릉콜걸샵출장샵안내Y✍╔2019-02-17-13-00춘천☢AIJ↺출장소이스홍성미시출장안마릉콜걸샵◄출장소이스┡콜걸⇛춘천》창원콜걸강추✏광양출장시○오산출장연애인급╯순천출장샵
  • 춘천콜걸만남
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  • 영천출장샵예약♩강릉출장샵후기⇟《춘천출장업소『카톡: Mo46』【m oo27.c0M】출장샵추천출장코스가격Y£┪2019-02-17-13-00춘천♙AIJ➳콜걸강추콜걸강추출장최고시╢콜걸추천▶콜걸강추➹춘천》동해출장몸매최고✑용인출장안마⇡서산출장소이스✲하남출장안마추천

  • 춘천출장소이스
  • 출장콜걸
  • 모텔출장
  • 김천미시출장안마╚대구출장오피┏《춘천콜걸샵(카톡: Mo46)〖m oo27.c0M〗출장마사지콜걸Y┛♞2019-02-17-13-00춘천┞AIJ◥출장외국인출장코스가격안마♚출장안마추천⇦역출장안마┣춘천》고양출장샵예약╝제주도모텔출장☈공주출장소이스●제천출장몸매최고모텔출장
  • 춘천모텔출장{카톡: Mo46}(m oo27.c0M)역출장안마출장오쓰피걸Y╘ღ2019-02-17-13-00춘천⇅AIJ⇔출장코스가격출장미인아가씨출장가격ღ출장만족보장☣콜걸출장안마➹춘천
  • 춘천콜걸강추목포콜걸┠광명안마⊙《춘천콜걸【카톡: Mo46】【m oo27.c0M】출장소이스출장소이스Y▒[2019-02-17-13-00춘천✪AIJ↽콜걸만남출장서비스출장소이스☻출장여대생☁출장색시미녀언니┥춘천》군산출장샵추천❤광명오피╟충청북도콜걸출장안마✖경주출장외국인춘천출장몸매최고
  • 춘천출장샵후기
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  • 출장마사지
  • 수원출장만남〓대전릉콜걸샵↺《춘천안마《카톡: Mo46》【m oo27.c0M】출장서비스출장샵예약Y♠┳2019-02-17-13-00춘천♦AIJ♧출장만남콜걸출장샵콜걸↖출장업소▌출장아가씨♥춘천》제천콜걸출장마사지↫대전오피✓경주출장샵강추✑광명콜걸후기
  • 춘천출장샵콜걸『카톡: Mo46』〖m oo27.c0M〗출장연애인급콜걸강추Y☢⇉2019-02-17-13-00춘천⇥AIJ✌콜걸샵출장샵추천출장색시미녀언니◇출장안마야한곳╳콜걸샵⇁춘천
  • 춘천출장최고시《카톡: Mo46》『m oo27.c0M』동출장마사지콜걸후기Y⇣♟2019-02-17-13-00춘천➧AIJ┮릉콜걸샵출장업계위콜걸강추√콜걸강추☚ 출장샵예약╨춘천
  • 출장업소
  • 춘천출장샵예약포항
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  • 춘천출장외국인[카톡: Mo46]【m oo27.c0M】안마출장맛사지Y☏♩2019-02-17-13-00춘천¤AIJ☂출장오피오피출장샵예약포항⇚안마♪출장샵예약♪춘천
  • 모텔출장
  • 춘천콜걸업소『카톡: Mo46』【m oo27.c0M】출장미인아가씨출장외국인Y↺♥2019-02-17-13-00춘천⇏AIJ➥출장시출장업소콜걸만남↕출장업계위❤출장서비스보장]춘천춘천출장여대생출장콜걸춘천출장샵예약포항[카톡: Mo46](m oo27.c0M)출장샵안내출장외국인Y☣┳2019-02-17-13-00춘천➴AIJ♪출장업계위출장가격안마↼출장미인아가씨┆출장연애인급W춘천
  • 출장오피걸
  • 춘천출장안마추천{카톡: Mo46}[m oo27.c0M]출장색시미녀언니출장서비스보장Y◥➷2019-02-17-13-00춘천▒AIJ☌안마출장업계위출장안마추천⊙출장최강미녀╫출장샵콜걸➚춘천
  • 춘천출장서비스보장
  • 춘천[keyword]《m oo27.c0M》『카톡: Mo46』☞춘천출장가격♩춘천출장만남✉출장샵예약포항☜춘천출장몸매최고♠춘천출장아가씨

    경상남도출장업소◑충청남도출장아가씨♦《춘천동출장마사지(카톡: Mo46)[m oo27.c0M]출장안마출장서비스보장Y➼♠2019-02-17-13-00춘천┊AIJ╭동출장마사지출장몸매최고출장서비스♈출장오피╣출장서비스보장↘춘천》과천릉콜걸샵↿원주출장서비스➽김포출장안마↕순천출장외국인청주출장최고시♦의왕오피걸♜《춘천출장안마추천〖카톡: Mo46〗(m oo27.c0M)출장업계위릉콜걸샵Y⇚▬2019-02-17-13-00춘천┢AIJ↹출장마사지출장서비스동출장마사지╕출장오피↨콜걸◑춘천》나주오피┑동해출장색시미녀언니∷포천출장맛사지♩문경콜걸출장안마춘천출장가격모텔출장
  • 춘천출장외국인【카톡: Mo46】{m oo27.c0M}콜걸출장안마야한곳Y♐♂2019-02-17-13-00춘천➻AIJ➵출장몸매최고출장소이스홍성외국인출장만남✡출장만남➸모텔출장⇦춘천
  • 안산출장외국인◑충청북도출장샵콜걸┋《춘천출장가격(카톡: Mo46)《m oo27.c0M》출장안마야한곳출장샵추천Y┓♝2019-02-17-13-00춘천♦AIJ☪외국인출장만남모텔출장모텔출장⇣출장오쓰피걸➳출장맛사지☏춘천》마산콜걸강추♂보령출장안마↤양산콜걸추천↺광명출장안마야한곳
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